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Soot. Cinders. Slag. The ghost of wood past. Yes, I was indeed referring to wooden ash – we know it, we get it, but we do sure hate cleaning it after the magic of sitting by the firepit’s gone. If you’re the proud owner of a fireplace or anything that runs on split logs and fire, then you know just how frustrating it is to remove the ash from the grate.

Let me role-play for a while (gonna be Morpheus from The Matrix). *ahem* What if told you that there’s a way to turn ash into your ally? More than that, what if I told you that wood ash is the very best thing that could happen to a household after baking powder and diatomaceous earth? I know it sounds rather far-fetched. Perhaps even a bit crazy, but, as a matter of fact, the survival potential of wood ash is known since the dawn of time.

For instance, ancient Egyptians would use a mix of water and ash to deal with pests. The same mixture would also act as a deodorizer, wishing away foul smells (and they kind of needed it, especially those who insisted on wearing those ridiculous-looking wigs).

Anyway, because I’m what my wife calls a slug bug, I sort of did some research of ways to deal with wooden ashes (I simply cannot stand the thought of wasting a couple of hours cleaning every stove and pit and then digging holes around the yard to bury the ash).

And so, after snooping around for a while, I discovered that wood ashes are not only great for getting rid of pests or making deodorants but also for many other jobs, much of them having to do with everyone’s favorite topic – SHTF.

So, without further ado, here’s how wooden ash can help you in any shit hits the fan situation.

1. Water filtration

If you’re out of water filtration pills or have no other source nearby, it may be possible to whip up a water filtration system using an old plastic bottle, fresh ashes, pebbles, sand, and two pieces of cloth. The trick is to arrange them in layers: pebbles, sand, cloth, ash, pebbles, sand, ash, cloth, sand, and pebbles again. Use this to sort of strain your dirty water a couple of times. Proust!

2. Getting rid of ice quick and fast

Many don’t know this, but wooden ash is packed with potassium chloride, aka salt. So, using a handful of wood ash on your driveway or front porch has the same effect as using salt. Knock yourself out!

3. Making the fridge stink go away

There’s nothing more repulsive than having to open the fridge only to nail it shut afterward on account of the rancid smell. You don’t need to get everything out and wash the inside with water and dish detergent. Grab a small plate from the pantry and fill it with ash. Stick it inside the fridge, and the smell will disappear in a couple of hours.

4. Keeping your food fresh

No power? No problem. Dig a hole in the ground, fill the bottom with rocks and straw, and put your veggies and fruits inside. Cover with as much ash as you can find and you’ve got yourself a tiny root cellar. Long before the fridge was invented, homesteaders would place veggies, fruits, and even meat in big clay pots, fill them with ashes and sealed with wax.

5. Making a strong decontamination agent

Although it’s highly unlikely for you to get anywhere near radiations, you should know that it’s possible to create a strong decontamination agent using boiled ash. In a big pot, put some water, wait for it to boil, and had a handful of soot. Stir until the ash is dissolved.

Use a coffee filter to strain the stuff. The resulting liquid, also called lye water, can be used to scrub clean your body if get into contact with harmful radiation. By the way, lye water can also be used to clean and sanitize marble, plates, silverware, clothes, floors, and even wooden floors.

6. Remove humidity from emergency food pantries and root cellars

If you discover that your root cellar or pantry where you’ve stashed the emergency supplies are far too humid, you need not spend hundreds of bucks on a dehumidifier. Grab yourself a metal bucket and put some ash inside. The soot will instantly remove all extra humidity from the air.

7. Field toothpaste

Oral hygiene should always be on the top of your list no matter if you’re at home or lost in some neck of the woods without water and food. Anyway, if you ever feel like your teeth are about to go on a strike because you forgot to wash or floss, dip your finger in fresh ashes and rub it against your teeth. It has the same scrubbing effect as baking soda or salt. Sure, it’s a bit messier compared to toothpaste, but at least your gums are clean.

8. Gardener’s best friend

If you ever get around to growing your veggie garden, don’t let those pest or animals ruin your dream. You can get rid of most of them by putting a small ash pile at the base of each plant.

10. No more trips to the vet for ticks, lice, and fleas

I sometimes find it difficult to run to the vet each time one of my cats or dogs come home with fleas or ticks (and yes, it happens very often since we keep them inside only during the winter and early spring.

If you want to save some money of those vet bills, it may be possible to create a strong flea\tick\lice repellent using water, fresh white ash, and a little bit of vinegar. Combine all three inside a bowl or something and stir. The result is thick, off-white paste. My cats and dogs hate it and spreading it on their furs is a nightmare. However, this stuff is as effective as anything you get from the pet shop.

Hope you’ve enjoyed my article on survival uses of wooden ash. Think I’ve missed something? Hit the comments section and let me know.

Before you go, you may also like:

How to survive any medical crisis situation with ease
Secret Military Solution For Power Independence

Lost Skills of our Ancestors that still work today

What if I told you that wood ash is the very best thing that could happen to a household after baking powder and diatomaceous earth?

I decided to make beeswax soap for Christmas gifts last year.  It has been on my list of things I should probably know how to do and when my stepfather, who keeps bees, brought me seven pounds of beeswax from his hives, I thought the time was right.

I started my soap-making adventure with a recipe for beeswax soap from the book, “Beeswax Alchemy”.  This book contains directions for making candles, balms and bars, salves, cream and scrubs, soap, and even beeswax art.

BEESWAX – WHERE TO GET IT AND HOW TO HANDLE IT

You can either acquire your beeswax from a beekeeper, which I was fortunate enough to be related to, or you can buy it online and it comes in handy little balls that are easy to measure and melt.  The wax I had was in giant hunks which I sawed off with a bread knife.  I do not recommend this method.  It’s maddening.  Since then I have learned another method which would have saved me a lot of blood, sweat, and tears.

First, beeswax becomes brittle when frozen and is much easier to cut.  Secondly, and I think I will go this route next time, the wax can be melted and poured onto a large cookie sheet lined with freezer paper.  Once hardened, the wax can be broken off into small chunks without sawing at it like a crazed butcher.

You can make soap without beeswax, however, I wanted to use the beeswax I had on hand because the scent is wonderful and it has conditioning properties that I wanted to in my soap.

LYE, LYE, LYE

Without lye, there is no soap.  Lye, or sodium hydroxide, is required to make the chemical reaction that makes soap.  Period.  I had seen lye in the hardware store for cleaning out drains and thought that there must be a softer, gentler lye available for making soap.   To my surprise, the lye I made soap with to give my loved ones was made with the same highly caustic chemical that will burn the eyes out of your head.  Since lye is so dangerous, I want to give you some tips:

  1. Measure everything correctly. This is not the time for measuring with your eyes, use a digital scale, it is most accurate. If your lye to fat ratio is off, or you have added too much beeswax you will waste your time because your soap will be sludgy or rubbery.
  2. Once you have added the water to lye, it’s all business. Wear clothing to cover your skin and protective eye-wear.
  3. When the water is added it creates fumes that should not be breathed in. I didn’t know this and I leaned over the pot of lye and took a deep breath.  I am still here, but I wouldn’t recommend it.
  4. ONLY USE STAINLESS STEEL! The lye will react badly with other metals.  I bought a stainless steel pot that I use only for soap making.  I just cannot make mashed potatoes and serve them from the same pot that had a toxic chemical in it.  I am just weird that way.

Other equipment you need to make soap

  1. Immersion blender –  This is a luxury item.  You can mix all your ingredients up with a STAINLESS STEEL whisk, but I have to tell you, this blender made mixing so much faster and easier.
  2. Freezer paper – You can buy large rolls of it and it is essential for lining cardboard if you are making your own rectangular molds.  It is also nice to wrap the soap in and tie with twine to give as gifts or just to store for yourself.
  3. Soap molds vs. cardboard – If you use the cardboard and make a box (approximately the size of a bread pan) and line with freezer paper.  I bought a silicon soap mold that was the right size.  The advantage of a mold is that it will be more durable than cardboard over time and you don’t have to fool with the freezer paper.  You can get fancier molds that have lovely designs in them, but I opted for the box shape and cut with a blade for a more homesteader look.
  4. Fragrance – I bought essential oils and used the lemongrass. Any of the essential oils will work great, but I would buy the most concentrated possible so the scent is present.  You can combine scents to create something unique, or just use one of them for a distinguishable scent.

Beeswax Soap Making Material List

  • olive oil – 358g
  • coconut oil – 225g
  • palm oil – 177g
  • castor oil – 32g
  • beeswax – 7.2g
  • distilled water – 266g divided
  • lye – 111g
  • honey – 1 TBS
  • fragrance – 2 TSP
  • disposable paper bowl
  • stainless steel bowl for lye
  • stainless steel pot or microwave save container for oils
  • stainless steel whisk or immersion blender
  • digital scale
  • mold
  • freezer paper (if using cardboard)
  • digital thermometer

Yield – eight 4 ounce bars

How do you make soap?

  1. Measure out the lye and place in disposable paper bowl.

  1. Measure out 148 grams of distilled water and pour into stainless steel bowl. Place bowl onto heat resistant surface and then add dry lye crystals to water (NEVER THE OTHER WAY AROUND)  Stir until lye is completely dissolved.  Set aside to cool.

SIDE NOTE:  Those new to digital scales, this is for you.  When measuring ingredients, first select the TARE WEIGHT and then set the container that will hold what you are measuring (ex. plastic cup, bowl, etc.)  This will analyze the weight of the container so that weight is NOT included in the weight of the ingredients.  Then, once the TARE WEIGHT is selected, the scale should read 0.0 (give or take some zeroes) and then you can add the ingredients to be weighed.  If you are not using a digital scale you will have to weigh the container then add the ingredients and subtract the weight of the container to get actual weight of ingredients.

  1. Microwave the honey, 118g of remaining water, and microwave until dissolved.
  2. Prepare the mold.
  3. Heat all the solid oils and beeswax in a stainless steel pot. Add the liquid oils (excluding honey and water mixture) and stir.
  4. Check temperature of lye and the oils. This is crucial!  To keep beeswax from getting hard, the oils need to be around 120 F.  The lye needs to be 120 F as well.
  5. Now add honey water to the lye water ONLY when it has reached the correct temperature. Sometimes this will result in a color change, which is normal.

  1. Now pour the lye water into the oils and mix with the stainless steel whisk or the immersion blender.
  2. When the mixture begins to looks creamy, it has emulsified and this is the time to add your fragrance.
  3. Keep mixing until it looks like a light cake batter. This is called the trace.

  1. Quickly pour into prepared mold or cardboard container lined with freezer paper. Scrape every bit of residue from the pot with a high-temp spatula.

  1. Tap soap mold on the counter to remove air. Smooth out the top and cover mold with cardboard to hold heat in.
  2. In twenty-four hours the soap should be cool enough to cut. If it seems too soft, then wait and continue checking every 4-6 hours.  Once it is hard enough to cut into bars, I cut it with a blade made for cutting soap.  The handle and size made cutting more even and straight.  I wrapped my soaps in freezer paper and twine and stored them in a cool dry spot.
  3. I also allowed my soaps to cure for 30 days because more water will evaporate from them, resulting in a longer lasting soap bar. I hated the thought of going through this process only for the soaps to sludge away in the shower.

The finished product – looks like… soap.

END RESULT

Like anything else, there are pros and cons, here they are:

PROS

Making soap is a good skill to have under your belt.  One day you may not be able to drive to your local Walmart and pick up a bar of Ivory soap.

They make wonderful gifts!

It is natural and uses a bi-product produced by our dear friend, the honeybee.

This soap is the best if you have sensitive skin, eczema, or other skin conditions.  It will leave you clean without the drying effects of the cheaper commercial soaps.

CONS

The next time I make it, the cost will be significantly less, but it will definitely cost more than cheap drugstore soap.  You can always stock up on the cheap stuff in the event of an emergency and you can shower yourself clean with the best of them.  Personally, I like the idea of having a chemical-free, all natural way to clean up.


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I decided to make beeswax soap for Christmas gifts last year.  It has been on my list of things I should probably know how to do and when my stepfather,

When travelling, working from a vehicle or in a hostile environment it makes sense to keep all your important and essential equipment in a bug out bag. From a tactical point of view, if you are attacked, ambushed or involved in an emergency situation and have to evacuate you will want to have any confidential information, emergency and survival equipment with you.

You never want to leave your essential equipment in an unattended vehicle, hotel room or non-secure location. For example, if the vehicle is stolen you lose your kit, which could be embarrassing to say the least especially where weapons and confidential information is concerned.

Contents

What you carry in your bug out bag will vary greatly depending where you are and what you are doing. For example, what you need in an urban environment will be different from what you could need in a very rural environment. What I have listed here is just a guide to what you may need, you need to keep things real and not include gear that you will never use, remember if things go wrong and you have to run you don’t want a bag weighing 100 lbs. on your back.

What you need in an urban environment will be different from what you could need in a very rural environment.

Bug out bag equipment (Basic)

  • A decent bag that is easy to carry, preferably a day sack or something that can be carried on you back so your hands are left free.
  • All equipment should be in individual water proof bags or containers. This is to keep everything dry, organized and clean.
  • Good maps and street plans of the area and a compass.
  • Any confidential information such as orders, codes, designated routes, operational procedures etc.
  • Radio/communications equipment, chargers and spare batteries.
  • A good first aid kit.
  • A good flash light and spare batteries.
  • Lighter or matches
  • Personal water filter
  • A bag of coins for parking meters and pay phones.
  • A camera, for taking photos of anything suspicious or that you think needs recording.
  • Water proofed note pad and selection of pens.

Bug out bag equipment: Potential threat environment

  • Radio scanner can be used to scan the emergency services radio frequencies; this can provide you with an early warning of potential problems or criminal/terrorist incidents in your area. In some areas, there are restrictions on the use scanners, always check.
  • Spot light can be used at night to shine in the face and blind the drive of a threat vehicles which is following/chasing you etc.
  • Smoke discharges, military style some grenades are illegal to possess in most places. What are legal though are the smoke distress signals that are carried on yachts and maritime vessels. These can be bought at most boat shops and are not that expensive, they usually can discharge about a minuets worth of red smoke. Smoke can be used to provide cover if you are ambushed or need to evacuate on foot. In addition, it can be used to cause a distraction in say an urban environment so you can evacuate the area.
  • Weapons, in some areas you cannot carry weapons on your person but can carry them in a secure case, the case can go in your bag! Where there may be a need for a long gun such as a shotgun or assault rifle and these cannot be carried openly they can go into a car bag. Of course, you can carry spare ammunition.

Food and drink

Depending on where you are and the length of your journey you may want to carry some form of food and drink with you

  • Drink, it’s always handy to have a thermos flask of coffee or tea available for moral reasons if nothing else. With drinks and liquids, you must insure they do not spill or leak over documents and equipment. Highly caffeinated and sugary coffee or sports drinks can be included in your car bag for emergencies, these can give you an energy boost when you need it and can help you to stay awake when you’re tired.
  • Food, if you are carrying food as with liquids you need to insure they do not spill or leak over documents and equipment. If you take a sandwich or other perishable food with you make sure you do not leave them in the car bag for any extended length of time and they go bad. It is also good protocol if sharing a vehicle with others not to carry strong smelling food; it might not smell good to everyone. Emergence foods that can be carried include chocolate bars, nuts, raisins etc. These will give you energy, are compact and have a long shelf life.

Remember if you use any emergency supplies replace them. This only a guide to what you may want to carry with you. We are not going to get into wilderness survival and navigation techniques as that is another subject, which if your operating in you should have at least a basic knowledge of.

When travelling, working from a vehicle or in a hostile environment it makes sense to keep all your important and essential equipment in a bug out bag. From a tactical

For the few wondering what off-grid means – The term off-the-grid (OTG) can refer to living in a self-sufficient manner without reliance on one or more public utilities. … Off-the-grid homes aim to achieve autonomy; they do not rely on one or more of municipal water supply, sewer, gas, electrical power grid, or similar utility services.

If you know what you’re doing it’s not hard to take yourself off the grid in many ways. Growing your own food just takes some land – it doesn’t have to be all that much – and a bit of work. Hunting or keeping small livestock are traditional and effective ways of keeping yourself supplied with fresh meat. Millions of people across the USA draw water from their own wells.

But how far can you really go off the grid? Aren’t there some things – like fuel – that you can’t produce for yourself?

The answer is no, not really. If you’re determined to do it, even fuel independence is achievable. Not only can you do it, but you’ll eventually save a fortune by ending your reliance on profit-hungry energy companies.

Fuel falls into two categories. The first, and easier one is energy to cook, heat your home and supply hot water.

The second is fuel to power internal combustion engines – vehicles, generators and heavy duty tools. That one takes a bit more work but it’s still something that anyone can achieve if they make the decision. Let’s look at each type of fuel in turn.

1. Home Energy

It’s possible to heat and light a modern home, and do all your cooking, with nothing but electricity – and electricity can be generated from renewable sources. If you install enough capacity in solar panels, wind turbines or even micro-hydroelectric, you can meet all your household energy needs that way. It’s not always the ideal solution, though. Solar needs some kind of storage system to keep the power on at night, and all the renewable methods with the partial exception of hydro are dependent on the weather. If you want to go completely off grid it’s best not to rely on them for 100% of your energy.

Putting electricity aside for the moment, one good fuel for your home is wood. A simple fire will heat a room, but you can go a lot further than that. A wood-burning range in your kitchen will handle cooking, and also supply you with hot water and power your central heating.

Stove wood can be bought quite cheaply in most areas, but it makes sense to cut your own. If you have timber on your land the solution is obvious – harvest it sustainably. If you can’t supply enough timber that way look at local state forests; you can usually get a permit to cut wood, there. Even better, in some forests loggers fell and limb trees, then only take the trunk. The top and limbs can usually be harvested for nothing, and that’s an ideal source of free firewood. All you have to do is cut it to length, split and season it.

Seasoning deserves some explanation:

It’s possible to burn newly cut wood, but not usually a good idea unless it’s from a dead tree. Wood cut from a live tree is hard to light and tends to put out a lot of smoke, but there’s a bigger problem: It usually has a moisture content of somewhere between 30% and 50%. If you burn that, a lot of the heat generated by the fire will go towards evaporating enough of the moisture to let the green wood burn. You can waste up to 30% of the energy that way. Good firewood contains around 15-20% moisture. Less than that and it will burn too fast; more and it burns inefficiently. That means more work for you; 30% wasted heat means you need 30% more wood to keep your home running. Cutting wood is going to be a big enough task anyway; why make it bigger by almost a third?

The solution is to season your wood:

That basically just means letting it dry naturally until the moisture content comes down into the range you want. Before letting wood season, cut it to length and split it down; if you try to season whole logs it will take years, and the wood could even start to rot if enough moisture is trapped inside. Once it’s split, stack it in a well-ventilated place. Ideally, it should season in an open-sided shelter with a roof to keep the rain off. Stack it off the ground, and use boards or poles to separate each layer of split logs from the one below. That will let air circulate between them, helping them season evenly and also deterring critters from moving in.

The length of time needed for seasoning depends on a lot of variables. If you live in a humid climate it will take longer, as the moisture will evaporate more slowly. Hardwood also needs more time. Generally, if you cut softwood in winter and stack it in spring it should be ready to burn by the time fall arrives. Hardwood might take a full year or eighteen months.

Obviously wood can produce heat, but it can’t produce electricity. The best way to do that is to use renewables with a generator as backup. You can run the generator on conventional diesel or gasoline, but if you really want to go off grid you should look at alternatives for that too. The good news is there are options available – and they’re the same fuels that can also power your vehicle.

2. Engine Fuels

It’s possible to live without the internal combustion engine, but life will be pretty difficult.

With no vehicle, generator or chainsaw you can expect to quickly learn how hard our pioneer ancestors worked just to keep themselves supplied with essentials. Few people want to get that far off the grid, so being able to produce fuel that will power engines is a very good idea.

Modern fuels are carefully blended and fortified with additives to burn cleanly and efficiently. Most people have got accustomed to the idea that fuel is an exact science and these complex blends are necessary. The truth is a bit different. Most engines will run on practically anything they can ignite and that releases enough energy when it burns. Not sure about that? Most gasoline you buy nowadays has ethanol mixed in with it, usually about 10%. Ethanol is about 30% less powerful than gasoline but it creates fewer toxic exhaust emissions. It’s also cheaper and renewable – gasoline is refined from oil, but ethanol can be produced by fermenting and distilling corn. It’s cheap, and that’s the main reason oil companies mix it with their gas.

Ethanol

Ethanol-Fuel-offgridJust about any gasoline engine will run on fuel containing up to 10% ethanol, but many newer ones – after about 2001 – will handle much more. Flex-fuel vehicles can run on up to 85% ethanol, and some can handle 100% ethanol. Most new vehicles for the Brazilian market will run on pure ethanol, for example.

Even if you can replace 85% of your gas with home-produced fuel that’s going to save you a lot of money and reduce your reliance on the oil industry, but total replacement is possible.

Ethanol fuel is produced the same way as whiskey, so you should probably check out the law before trying to set up a production line. Some states charge a tax on ethanol you produce for fuel; you might also have to make it unfit for drinking.

Actually making ethanol involves two stages – fermentation and distillation. Fermentation involves breaking down the sugars and starches in biomass and converting them to ethanol; distillation extracts the ethanol from the fermentation product. The first thing you’ll need to do is get your hands on suitable biomass. The good news here is that just about any non-woody plant material can be fermented. Corn is popular, because it’s a very dense crop that can produce a lot of fuel for a relatively small area – but “relatively” is the important word here. To run your car all year you’ll need to grow about two acres of corn and process it all into fuel. That’s quite a lot of land – but you can reduce it by planting a crop that contains more sugar than corn does. Sugar beet is an obvious choice; so is sugar cane if you have the climate for it, but harvesting that is a lot of work.

 

Once you have your fermentable vegetation the next step is to process it into a usable form. For most plants, that means grinding or shredding them. Grains, like corn, might need to be sprouted and dried first. Once the biomass is processed turn it into a mash by mixing with boiling water, add yeast and leave it to ferment for between one and two weeks.

What you’ll end up with is a fermented mash that contains around 10% ethanol and a lot of water and plant matter. Distillation will extract the pure ethanol, which you can then use as fuel. Owning a still is legal almost everywhere in the USA; where it gets problematic is if you actually use it to produce ethanol. Check your local laws, as these can vary quite a lot, but as long as you can show that you’re making fuel, not moonshine, you’ll probably be okay.

Biodiesel

Diesel engines, especially older ones, are even easier to run off the grid. They’re also simple to maintain and have loads of torque. Diesels run at a high compression ratio and don’t use spark plugs to ignite the fuel; the heat generated by compression does it. This means they can burn fuels that don’t ignite so easily, including a lot of plant-based oils. Biodiesel is a growth industry and you can make it yourself, but there’s an easier option – cooking oil.

Ordinary canola oil can be easily converted into a diesel substitute, and it’s cheap. In fact, if you can get used oil from a restaurant it’s basically free, and used oil is actually better as a fuel. Some TV shows have shown how easy it is to get an old diesel running on oil; the simplest way is to just filter the oil to get the burnt crunchy bits out, add 1-2% mineral spirits to thin the oil and leave it to stand for a week.

 

That will work, but it’s not a perfect solution; it can be harder to start from cold, and might damage modern injector systems. On the plus side exhaust, emissions are much lower, it lubricates the engine better than actual diesel does, and it actually gives more power and higher fuel efficiency. With all the advantages of cooking oil, it’s worth doing slightly more work to perfect it as a fuel.

To purify biodiesel from oil you need lye and methanol (wood alcohol). For each gallon of oil mix half an ounce of lye into a pint of methanol until the lye has completely dissolved. Immediately mix this into the oil and stir it steadily for 20 minutes to half an hour. Then leave it to settle. It will separate into two layers; the bottom one is glycerine, which has several uses of its own. The top layer, which will be the bulk of the liquid, is biodiesel.

One issue with biodiesel is that it can corrode natural rubber. If you’re using it in an older engine it’s a good idea to replace any rubber gaskets and hoses with synthetic ones; modern engines should be fine without modifications.

Not all oils are equally good for making biodiesel. The best is also the cheapest – canola. Sunflower is a close second.

Wood Gas

A final option is wood gas. A gas generator can convert wood into a gas by heating it to high temperatures in a limited oxygen atmosphere. The gas is mostly hydrogen and carbon monoxide, with some methane and other gasses mixed in. This gas will power a standard gasoline engine; during the Second World War many vehicles in Europe were converted to run on wood gas, with a small gas generator mounted on the vehicle. FEMA actually published plans of a gas generator in 1989; it works, and is quite simple to make, but you’ll get much better performance with the traditional Imbert generator.

Wood gas is actually an amazing fuel; you can run a vehicle on it, or use it to power a generator and supply your home with electricity, using cheap and plentiful wood as a fuel. Other forms of biomass, including many types of agricultural waste, can be used as well.

Because wood gas contains a high percentage of carbon monoxide it’s potentially dangerous. You definitely don’t want to try using an improvised gas generator indoors. If you’re using wood gas for electricity generation keep the gas generator outside your home in a well-ventilated shed. The most popular vehicles for conversion are trucks; the gas generator can be mounted in the bed, safely outside the cab, and will still leave plenty of load space.

Many off grid livers are frustrated at still being reliant on commercial fuel supplies. The good news is that you don’t actually have to be. With the options we’ve looked at here you can supply energy to your home, plus run your vehicle and other engine-powered devices, without using a drop of oil. When it comes to energy independence that’s about as good as it gets.


Other self-sufficiency and preparedness solutions recommended for you:

Healthy Soil + Healthy Plants = Healthy You

The vital self-sufficiency lessons our great grand-fathers left us

Knowledge to survive any medical crisis situation

Liberal’s hidden agenda: more than just your guns

Build yourself the only unlimited water source you’ll ever need

4 Important Forgotten Skills used by our Ancestors that can help you in any crisis

Secure your privacy in just 10 simple steps

For the few wondering what off-grid means - The term off-the-grid (OTG) can refer to living in a self-sufficient manner without reliance on one or more public utilities.